some more of varanasi...

After a frustrating morning of persistant touts, being stalked down the street, and dodgy internet cafes, we've finally found a place to update you on our travels. Luvly.
Yesterday we had a full day of touristy stuff around Varanasi, beginning with a 5.30am sunrise boatride along the Ganges. This was a clear standout for us, as we slowly meandered past the ghats, observing hindus as they prayed, washed, swam, stretched, bathed, and in some cases cremated their family members. Needless to say this was an amazing glimpse into the cultures and rituals of hinduism. We have much to learn about spiritual discipline, or even spirituality. Many of these guys wash at this spiritually significant place everyday, summer and winter.

While we sat rugged up in the boat before the sun came up, mothers bathed their small children in the open air. Brrrrrr. We noticed a western woman brave the cold to do her Hindu prayers, but she only braved the cold water for a quick head and footwash. After an hour and a half on the Ganges, we were driven to a few Hindu Temples, and also took a drive around the huge campus of Banaras Hindu University, one of Indias largest universities.
We headed out again in the afternoon and visited Sarnath, which is the Buddhist centre of Varanasi. We really enjoyed this area, and it was a nice change from the plethora of Hindu Temples that we've already visited. The area had a nice feel to it as well, more trees and gardens, and many buddhist monks doing laps...it was all very welcoming.
At sunset we returned to the Ganges, and jumped on a boat to checkout Ganga Puja, the evening hindu prayers on one of the Ghats, complete with lights and microphones. It was a little like a hindu version of the nightly show at Ayers Rock...bit cheesy really, but it was nice to be on the river. (No offence intended!!)

Varanasi surely has its extremes, perhaps more than anywhere else we've visited in India so far. The levels of street badgering was pretty full on, but the streets and markets were fantastic, as was the glimpse into so much hindu ritual. The ganges river provides a peaceful oasis amongst all this, though it is atad eery after dark.

We leave for Kolkata this afternoon, signalling the end of the first travelling phase of our adventures.